Montmartre, a small village inside paris

Caroline
11 avr. 2018
6 min de lecture

Dernière mise à jour : 12 avr. 2018

It's one of the most famous districts of Paris, a small village located outside of the capital until 1860 that has turned today into an iconic symbol of Paris.

Everyone knows this hill Montmartre, the funicular, the basilica, its main square place du Tertre, and even the mural of the lapin agile.

Under an appearance of a theme park for tourists looking for a postcard, the hill knows how to preserve its secrets.

Moving scarcely away from the Basilique and the Place du Tertre, we can easily look back further in the history, where mills, painters, abbesses, have left tracks.

Let's start climbing up to the hill, on foot or with the funicular.

The funicular is a railway shuttle going up and down along the hill offering stunning views during the 90 seconds of the ride. A metro ticket is necessary for a one way fare, travel passes are of course valid.

The basilica of the Sacré Coeur was designed by Paul Abadie, built between 1873 and 1914 and funded by private small donations. It is a Romano Byzantine work crowned by domes. It aims to be a sanctuary devoted to perpetual adoration of the Sacred Heart of Jesus and to atone Parisian's crimes especially after the 1870 war.

In the 6th century Montmartre was just a hamlet on the top of a hill, a hill with vines, windmills, and a few farmsteads supplying Paris with flour and wine.

There was a little wooden chapel Saint Pierre de Montmartre, this vestige of the medieval period is still remaining at n°2 rue du Mont Cenis. This is one of the oldest church of Paris.

If you have time, it worth it.

Originally Montmartre was a poor working class area.

Incorporated to Paris in 1860 its picturesque charm and low rents attracted painters as Manet, Renoir, Van Gogh, Toulouse Lautrec, Picasso, Utrillo, Modigliani and even Dali in its early 20th century heyday.

Now it is a mix of a very touristic area which buzzes with tourist traps but also local life and hidden gems.

You will guess, I am not fond of Place du Tertre.

Despite this frenzy crowd and huge popularity of the area, we can found lofty views, the village squares that lured painters in the 19th century, and shops, markets, all the facets of a day to day living.

Far from the crowd of Montmartre, follow me to wander in Paris off the beaten tracks where the real magic lies in a mix of unexpected and local life

(photo Behind the Seine)

Connect now with the history and the past turmoil of the Butte Montmartre, its artists studios, the Bateau Lavoir or the atelier Corot, and the atmosphere of its well known cabarets as le Chat Noir and le Lapin Agile.

If there is a museum to visit in Montmartre my recommendation will be the little and charming Musée de Montmartre in an old building of the 17th century.

Leave place du Tertre to rue du Mont Cenis and take rue Cortot.

This is a small bucolic museum, residence of famous artists as Renoir, Valadon, Utrillo, Dufy...

In the museum, don't miss the visit of the apartment and studio of Suzanne Valadon and her son Maurice Utrillo.

(Suzanne Valadon, André Utter, Maurice Utrillo - paintings S.Valadon and M.Utrillo - photo atelier Valadon ©musée Montmartre)

Then finish your visit at the Café Renoir, a charming garden away from the bustle.

A break to make you feel like staying in the countryside.

(photos ©musée Montmartre)

Montmartre, arts, a garden and a drink !

Musée Montmartre -12 rue Cortot (open everyday)

Continue to end of the rue Cortot to the intersection of the rue de l'Abreuvoir and rue des Saules.

Art is everywhere in Montmartre and you should walk along the Pink house painted by Utrillo and of course see the legendary cabaret "Au Lapin Agile" where Aristide Bruant, Renoir, Apollinaire or Picasso used to go.

Going down from the "maison rose" on the rue de l'Abreuvoir will keep us in a kind of village , with beautiful houses, flowery alleys, and romantic atmosphere.

Follow rue des Saules until the corner with rue Saint Vincent. Here is the cabaret Le Lapin Agile.

In front of the Lapin Agile you will notice the last vineyards, 1900 vines (less than one hectare) which produce around 1700 bottles a year.

I've never tested so I won't give my opinion on it !

Now let's move to rue Lepic, at n° 54 Théo Van Gogh's house.

And the iconic Moulin de la Galette immortalised by Renoir in 1876, by Toulouse Lautrec, Van Gogh and Utrillo.

The windmill was a dance hall, and now hosts a restaurant with good advices.

Turn now to rue d'Orchampt and go to the Place Emile Goudeau.

At n°13 you can see the Bateau Lavoir where many artists and especially Picasso stayed (and painted Les Demoiselles d'Avignon in1907).

Between 1895 and 1910 it was a central spot for painters.

A fire destroyed it in 1970, rebuilt in 1978 today studios welcome international artists.

Our path will drive us to Abbesses area with the charm and the lively atmosphere of a village revealing a few surprises (squares, gardens, street art, secret courtyards, trendy boutiques and many gourmet spots).

Take rue Androuet, cross rue Garreau, take the passage des Abbesses to the park Jehan Rictus.

The park Jehan Rictus which occupied the former site of the town hall during the Commune of Montmartre and go to the wall of "Je t'aime".

Installed in 2000, this wall presents 311 times the words "I love you" in 280 different languages.

Do you know what are the red coloured pieces ?

The remains of a broken heart. So romantic !

Cross the park to arrive place des Abbesses.

Place des Abbesses shape evokes the former abbey of the hill.

There was a Benedictine convent that was built on the site of the martyrdom of Saint Denis, which was a popular place for pilgrimages until it was destroyed during the French Revolution, and this is where the Place des Abbesses gets in name from. For seven centuries the abbey was the principal center for religious life in the capital. Place des Abbesses is a typical square but popular for shopping with some old shops and chic boutiques close by, Xmas markets in December and numerous restaurants,. Alternatively, you could just enjoy a coffee at one of the many cafés that are also situated around this square.

Abbesses Subway station entry by Hector Guimard

If you’re looking for an authentic food shopping experience rue des martyrs and rue Lepic are hubs for gourmets. Sought out by Parisians themselves food and gourmet shops, market stalls, wine bars, awarded bakeries...remind that locals really live on and around Montmartre.

Delicious cheeses at Yves Chataignier , a delicatessen shop called Maison Brémond, La Chambre aux Confitures, a gorgeous shop 100% dedicated to jam....

We cannot walk in Montmartre without a word about Amélie Poulain movie, this French romantic comedy, the story of this shy waitress who decides to change the lives of those around her for the better

(Le fabuleux destin d'Amélie Poulain)

The movie was filmed mainly in Montmartre, not so much in the most touristy parts but rather in the lesser known part west of it. If movie's picture of Montmartre is strongly romanticised, the locations of the movie were real.

(photo Behind the Seine)

Life in Montmartre has changed with Amélie Poulain, driving thousand of tourist on the steps of the shy waitress. Now with time passing since the movie, you still can find the grocery, the butchery, and the Café des 2 Moulins with traces of the movie’s shooting. The grocery “Maison Collignon” sells fruits, vegetables, and other foods, as well as souvenirs from Amélie Poulain. It is stuffed with press articles about the film’s success, which should please the nostalgic ones. Amélie’s home might be located in one of the building behind.

But forget Amélie (or just review the movie at home) and take the opportunity to stroll in the surrounding streets.

Be sure you will discover oddities in a relative oasis of peace in the very heart of Paris.

(photos Behind the Seine)

Our walk in Montmartre ends here.

In a coming post we will continue down the hill to the ex-sulfurous Pigalle district which become trendy and almost wise today and with a bucolic break in the garden of one of the most beautiful and still unknown museums of Paris whose name is already evocative of poetry and charm: the museum of romantic life.

My special tip for Montmartre is a luxurious tip but if you can afford it, stay at the Hôtel Particulier at least for one night.

Screened behind black iron gates the white Hôtel Particulier is surrounded by lush green gardens so you feel a million miles from bustling Paris when you are at 5 minutes from the Basilique du Sacré-Coeur. Inside this classic Directoire townhouse, five spacious suites, a vibrant bar Le Très Particulier which serves fabulous cocktails amid red booths and oversized palms and a restaurant opened from Wednesday to Saturday for dinner, and at the weekend for brunch.